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Creality Ender-3 S1 simple Tool changer

Suggested Price: 3.00

Suggested Price: 3.00

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Summary

This is by far the simplest mod I ever made and it can be replicated with only the parts out of the Ender-3 S1’s box. It consists out of two 3D printed parts which can be printed out of regular PLA and take approximately 1.5 hours to print. It can be mounted with the screws used to mount the extruder and it doesn’t require inserts or nuts. What I didn’t show in the video was that the little notches which fall in the screw holes of the extruder itself need to be cut to size like in the picture below.

I also added a bit of lubricant to make it slide better.

The video I made of this modification:

PROPER PRINTING PROVIDES THE SOFTWARE AND DESIGNS TO YOU “AS IS” AND WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS, STATUTORY, IMPLIED OR OTHERWISE, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION ANY WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR INFRINGEMENT. NO ORAL OR WRITTEN INFORMATION OR ADVICE GIVEN TO YOU BY ANY PROPER PRINTING EMPLOYEE, REPRESENTATIVE OR DISTRIBUTOR WILL CREATE A WARRANTY FOR THE SOFTWARE, AND YOU MAY NOT RELY ON ANY SUCH INFORMATION OR ADVICE.

On a less formal note: Don’t hold me responsible when you destroy your printer or set your house on fire.

Print settings

Printer: Standard printer
Rafts: No
Supports: Yes
Resolution: 0.2
Infill: 30%
Filament: Standard PLA

Notes:

I used PLA to show that it’s possible to do the mod with only the parts out of the box. Other (stronger) materials might be better, but aren’t required. The right print orientation is as shown in this picture:

Print orientation

Parts needed

  • -1 screw

Mounting instructions

  • Make sure that both parts are printed correctly
  • Disconnect the cable from the extruder assembly
  • Remove all screws on the right side of the extruder assembly
  • Remove the extruder assembly (this might require a bit of extra force due to the hot glue of the small connectors at the back)
  • Press the base plate over the two standoffs
  • Screw in the same screws on the right side and the screws create their own thread in the part.
  • Remove the two screws which hold the strain relief of the cable and the longer screw that holds the circuit board of the extruder assembly
  • Mount the Tool holder with those screws
  • Add a bit of lubricant to make it slide better
  • If the assembly doesn’t slide all the way to the right, the notches need to be modified a bit.

Because it uses an automated bel leveling sensor, you can just continue on printing the next part!

Other tools

As I’ve shown in the video you can add your own custom hardware to it. I haven’t done that myself yet, but I reverse engineered the connector which can be used to create your own hardware. Bear in mind that the connector has a 2mm pitch so if you’re going to use a prototyping board, buy one with this pitch. This is less common. This is the pinout of the connector:

I started making a board in Eagle, but I haven’t finished it. If you need more information, or if something is not correct, don’t hesitate to contact me!

 

7 reviews for Creality Ender-3 S1 simple Tool changer

  1. juan (verified owner)

    i tried to print your holder 3 times with the setting you have and sliced it with cura and prusa and they come out junk!!!!

    • Jón

      Hi Juan, Thanks for your feedback! This should be a straight forward print. Did you print them at the right orientation? I added an image with the right print orientation in the print settings tab. Hopefully this helps!

  2. Johnathan Oey (verified owner)

    I dont know what the issue was with the previous rater/poster, but this printed perfectly on my Ender 3 S1…I didn’t have to change any setting from what was recommended…Fits great and seems to hold great… I gave it 4 stars for now…After some use and testing ill come back and give an updated review and rating…but for now, im very impressed…

  3. Mark

    I’ve printed this so easy, brilliant idea, is there files for a pen or Lazer holder. Simple but brilliant.

  4. Alan Neubauer (verified owner)

    I have to agree with juan. I printed these and they came out poorly. THEN I read the information you provided regarding the proper printing method. WOW, the results are exceptional. I have NEVER used a 3D printer. My first print was the smiling cat for my granddaughter. It came out nearly perfect so I figured that I would use your BRILLIANT tool changing system. I downloaded the files and printed. I did this as an ABSOLUTE Noob (this is my second 3D print project). After the 3rd failed print, I correctly guessed that I was missing something. I visited your PRINT SETTINGS tab. Head Slap moment. I changed the print orientation and made the configuration (supports specifically) changes. Night and Day improvement. I finished the prints flawlessly and immediately installed the base and tool holder (after removing the little nubs you mentioned in your PRINT SETTINGS tab and using a small diamond file (150 grit) to soften the top edge of the tool where part of the print head bracket has to slide over). PERFECT FIT. IMPORTANT, if you are a Noob like me don’t forget to recalibrate (level) your machine. Once I adjusted the level and got all setting tuned for the new bracket assembly. This is a great, albeit simple, enhancement to my machine (Ender 3D S1 Pro). The ONLY Question I have is concerning the flexible ribbon cable. The original design had a supporting shelf to stabilize that critical connection point. I don’t think it will come apart due to the clipping mechanism, instead I am worried about how the cable will hold up over time with the constant flexing and bending while unsupported. Do you have a solution planned for that or is it something, in your opinion, that I shouldn’t have to worry about?

    • Jón

      Hi Alan. Thanks for your thorough feedback and I’m happy that you eventually got it working! I often forget to orient it correctly from my design software and I’ve gotten used to orienting it in the slicer itself. Regarding the strain relieve: I haven’t added it to make the tool easier to swap, but in the long run it would be better. Since I’m only using it for servicing at the moment I folded the cable at the connector and added a zip-tie around the connector and cable. This way it’s more secure, but it cannot be released. Maybe it’s a good idea to add strain relieve, but that makes things more complicated. My advise would be to zip-tie it if you’re planning on doing longer prints ore aren’t swapping much.

  5. Éric Cardinal (verified owner)

    Hi Jón… Great work, I was looking for that exact solution to be able to switch between my 2 heads (using 0.8mm and 0.4mm).

    The only problem I have, is that my back plate has round screws for the wheel (not flat like yours). This prevent the base print to sit flush on the back plate 🙁

    Thanks , Éric

  6. Kenny Berglund (verified owner)

    With this, X and Y offsets needs a little change, have you given any thought your model would do this? Please add the correct offsets for it.

    Thanks

    • Jón

      I personally didn’t run into issues with the offset this adds. The printer runs its ABL routine nicely and I can reach the full build volume. What exact issue do you run into?

  7. Timo

    Amazing job Jón! Thanks for sharing the idea and the files. I printed it on my EnderS1 and it worked well with the first try. I was wondering if you could also provide a holderplate for the Ender Laser-Head? Then it would be really awesome, to switch easily between Laser and Extruder 🙂

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