Creality K1 extruder upgrade
This upgrade makes it possible to add practically any extruder to the Creality K1 3D printer. It does this by turning it into a Bowden style system instead of a direct drive system.
Suggested price: €3.00
This upgrade makes it possible to add practically any extruder to the Creality K1 3D printer. It does this by turning it into a Bowden style system instead of a direct drive system. The disadvantage of this approach is that it's harder to print flexible materials, but in return you get this flexibility and the gantry becomes lighter. I ran into severe under extrusion issues with the early version of the Creality K1 and I had the Bondtech QR* laying around which I used for the Tug of Extruder War video. Note that the download contains the mounting plate for the right version of the Bondtech QR while the left version* would make more sense due to the placement of the filament runout sensor. I happened to have the right version and it was pretty easy to extend the wire of that sensor by using JST 2.54 XH 3 Pin extension wires which are easy to find on Amazon. If you need the plate to be mirrored for the left version of the Bondtech extruder, let me know! The download contains a STEP file of a left and right version of a blank mounting plate.
I made a video about the development of this mod in this YouTube video.
* product links are affiliate links
PROPER PRINTING PROVIDES THE SOFTWARE AND DESIGNS TO YOU “AS IS” AND WITHOUT WARRANTY OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS, STATUTORY, IMPLIED OR OTHERWISE, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION ANY WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR INFRINGEMENT. NO ORAL OR WRITTEN INFORMATION OR ADVICE GIVEN TO YOU BY ANY PROPER PRINTING EMPLOYEE, REPRESENTATIVE OR DISTRIBUTOR WILL CREATE A WARRANTY FOR THE SOFTWARE OR DESIGNS, AND YOU MAY NOT RELY ON ANY SUCH INFORMATION OR ADVICE.
On a less formal note: Don’t hold me responsible when you destroy your printer or set your house on fire.
Printer: Any decent FDM printer
Brim: No
Supports: Only for the bracket
Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
Layer height: 0.15 mm - 0.2 mm
Infill: 30%
Filament: Regular PLA
Notes:
None, it's an easy print.
| QTY | Description | Link* |
| 3 | M3 x 10 mm socket- or buttton head screw | https://geni.us/Xg6PYG |
| 3 or 7 | M3 nut or flanged nut (7 when using the Bondtech extruder) | https://geni.us/BViqH |
| 4 | M3 x 16 mm socket- or button head screw when using the Bondtech extruder | https://geni.us/K9tFn4 |
| 2 | PC4-M6 or PC4-M10 pass through Bowden coupler | https://geni.us/TGvS2e0 |
| 1 | Capricorn Bowden tube | https://geni.us/ynDJMLu |
| >5 | Zip ties 2.5mm width | https://geni.us/5NuOZrw |
| 1m | 4-wire motor cable (I used telephone cable) | https://geni.us/dJ3x |
| 0.4m | JST 2.54 XH 3 Pin extension wire | https://geni.us/p0AHj |
| 1 | Molex PicoBlade connector set | https://geni.us/sVAFG |
| 1 | Extruder (I used the Bondtech QR - right) | https://geni.us/ESIbO |
*Commissions are earned from the links above which help funding this project. If you have found a better alternative for a component, please let me know!
Using the Bondtech QR as shown in the video
When you use the exact same extruder, this mod is pretty straightforward. Note that for the video I used the right version (not left). The left version would make more sense because of the placement filament runout sensor, but I happen to have the right version (not left). If you'd like to use the left version, please leave a message through the contact page and I'll modify it. I will need your help to verify its fitment before adding this version to the download. The steps needed to make this happen are:
- Print the stl-parts in the download according to the print settings. You need to choose between the PC4-M6 or PC4-M10 version depending on the Bowden couplers you have.
- Remove the plastic cap on top of the extruder (this is a snap fit).
- Remove the extruder by loosening the 3 screws on the sides.
- Remove the short Bowden tube that was placed below the extruder, we don't need this anymore.
- Screw the Bowden couplers in the hotend side part and Bondtech Bowden coupler part.
- Place the 3 M3 nuts in the hotend side part.
- Place the 2 zip ties in the hotend side part.
- Place the hotend side part where the original extruder was placed.
- Use the 3 M3 x 10 mm screws to mount the hotend side part on the gantry.
- Place 4 nuts in the Bondtech base part. This goes easier when you use a longer M3 screw.
- Remove the center and two upper right screws from the back of the 3D printer.
- Mount the Bondtech base plate on the back of the 3D printer and mount it using 3 M3 x 10 countersunk screws.
- Place the Bondtech QR extruder.
- Place the Bondtech bracket and mount it using 4 M3 x 16mm screws. Be careful not to push out the nuts you placed in the base part.
- Place the bowden tube on the bottom of the extruder and mark it just below the edge where the top of the filament runout sensor will be placed and cut the tube. This will be the short piece between the sensor and the extruder.
- Remove the filament runout sensor and place that on the base part using the same screws.
- Solder the 4-wire PicoBlade connector to the 4-wire cable. During this step is doesn't matter which wire is connected to which. How it must be connected will be shown further down.
- Run the cable through the cable chain from back to the extruder and keep some slack so there is enough room to tighten the zip ties in the hotend side part.
- Cut the motor cable that came with the Bondtech extruder, cut the 4-wire cable to length and solder this together. Make sure that it's connected properly, more information about the wiring is shown in the chapter below.
- Fasten the zip-ties in the hotend side part.
- Make the JST 2.54 XH 3 Pin extension cable and connect the filament runout sensor to the original connector with this extension cable.
Wiring
Be aware that this must be done correctly! Double check everything. It can damage the main board when not done right!
The image below shows the connections as seen from the bottom of the connectors (so where the pins are exposed). I used the colors from the original Moons stepper motor that was placed on the K1. It is very important that you don't make assumptions and that you're confident doing this! Measure the pairs on both motors using a multimeter (these things are cheap and easy to source from the hardware store or Amazon). Measure a continuity between pins and make sure that these pairs are connected. In the case below, Red and Blue form a pair and Black and Orange form the second pair. Remember, don't hold me responsible when this goes wrong! Do this at your own risk. The worst that can happen when this is done right, is that the motor rotates in the wrong direction. This is mostly the case and when this happens, you can rotate all four wires on one side. Still, your risk.
Custom extruder
The download contains a STEP file which can be used to design your own holder for a different extruder. This file contains 3 parts: the left and right version of the base and a simplified filament runout sensor. The sensor can be moved to the desired location after you designed the mounting for the new extruder. After this the base plate can modified so the sensor can be mounted to it. Use 2mm holes at a depth of 10 mm.
